@DrewsBrews said:
Anyone have much experience with HDPE? I'm making an adapter to attach a router to a router table plate. Using 3/4" thick HDPE. Attaching the plates together with nuts from the underside may not work out due to interferance with the router base. Any idea if threading the plastic is likely to hold up over time?
I used a piece of 1/4" aluminum. I threaded the aluminum to mount it to the table. If you've never worked with aluminum, it cuts and drills with standard wood tools.
The router I got has a high power motor that should handle big bits, but a small opening in the base for some reason. I'm planning to use a collet adapter which will give extra shaft length past the base. Then use a thick spacer/adapter to give the bit more room between the base and table plate.
Both my 403s had a crank handle, as did the later 404; handy for starting the thing when the battery was failing, or for turning the engine over very slowly (without the ignition on!) for maintenance. Main issue with the crank handle was that it slotted in below the radiator, which meant a high-ish bonnet line.
While relatively slow, the 403 had far better handling and braking than any mainstream car of its day, and with overdrive was a comfortable cruiser. Great on bad roads, too with 15" wheels and long travel suspension; I took mine on some 4WD tracks.
And, shock, horror, it had a heater - no Australian cars did at the time. Had a 'start' button too, which carmakers these days consider a big deal.
The first 403 was killed by rust, the second by my realisation that I needed something more modern and safer in a crash.
I recall that Phil Hill, 1961 F1 World Champion, advertised it with "between races you can't beat a Peugeot 403".
I would recommend you take the baseplate off your router. Mount the base in a recessed hole at the top so that you do not lose as much depth. DO NOT use a bit extension with a router bit that big. Lexan/Polycarbonate are the best for a clear baseplate if you feel the need (I used to do that I don't anymore). I often buy Lexan "drops" online (ebay) for pretty cheap. Build a fence as well. The fence will help make sure you can control how much cut you are taking in one pass. Having dust collection in the fence and the base will make your life much more enjoyable and possibly longer.
Be safe. a bit like that will take big bites and pull in anything it can.
I understand the concern. Any project like this is touch and go. If this specific adapter plate doesn't work out ill figure out another game plan and use this one as a template.
The table does have a fence and I will definitely use it to take multiple passes working up to full depth of cut.
I recently used my 1-1/2" roundover for a port flare. It does scare me. I used 2-3 passes with my 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1-1/4" and finally 1-1/2". By time I got to the 1-1/2" there wasn't much to take off. Of course I could have taken many small passes with the 1-1/2" bit but I don't like having that thing spinning anywhere near me if I can avoid it.
@DrewsBrews said:
Anyone have much experience with HDPE? I'm making an adapter to attach a router to a router table plate. Using 3/4" thick HDPE. Attaching the plates together with nuts from the underside may not work out due to interferance with the router base. Any idea if threading the plastic is likely to hold up over time?
I've threaded both HDPE and LDPE. Small Fine threads didn't work well but 1/4 -20 was OK.
10-24 was the largest standard button head that would fit in the plate recesses. Failing that i can always go with socket heads in a larger thread or drill out the recesses for larger heads.
If you don't need the transparency I would highly suggest G10 phenolic material or aluminum. Check out G10 at McMaster-Carr. They both machine (ie tapped threads) really well.
Seems like it can work without the extension. 1/2" plate probably would have been about perfect instead of the 3/4". A4e suggest a much better router when I talked to him (thanks again). Though, the hobby budget was running thin after the table saw purchase. Hopefully this gets me by for now.
So the SDC got me thinking about other get togethers, and the house tracks. I found the playing of the same tracks over and over repulsive, and fatiguing. If I ever get enough time to put together a meeting, my thought is to use 3 one minute house tracks and let everyone bring 5 to 7min of their own music. I get the idea of a house track is to compare one speaker to another, but how about we as a group stop comparing and competing for pecking order and just do it for comradery. I mean who really gives a shit who's speaker is better? I just want to enjoy some music on some interesting home brew speakers. I know some of you will disagree and that's completely fine and reasonable, but I thought I'd throw this out there for everyone to mull over. Oh while I'm at it, what do you say, no more back handed compliments like those sound great, too bad the cabinets don't match the sound. WTF first off stop critiquing without being asked, only positive comments without. Okay rant over.
@ugly_woofer said:
So the SDC got me thinking about other get togethers, and the house tracks. I found the playing of the same tracks over and over repulsive, and fatiguing…
Agreed.
I, and I’m thinking many builders here (… I’ve been wrong before) go at a build project with a unique (from their previous builds) goal (or three) and so picking music that accentuates these build goals is interesting, IMO, for the demos.
I hope to get to more events (Colorado isn’t all that MID) for a) spending time with a fun group, b) looking at and ‘borrowing’ what I find unique and interesting at these meetings/ events, and c) I appreciate honest feedback/ suggestions as I hope to be always learning from this group.
Comments
I used a piece of 1/4" aluminum. I threaded the aluminum to mount it to the table. If you've never worked with aluminum, it cuts and drills with standard wood tools.
The router I got has a high power motor that should handle big bits, but a small opening in the base for some reason. I'm planning to use a collet adapter which will give extra shaft length past the base. Then use a thick spacer/adapter to give the bit more room between the base and table plate.
.
Both my 403s had a crank handle, as did the later 404; handy for starting the thing when the battery was failing, or for turning the engine over very slowly (without the ignition on!) for maintenance. Main issue with the crank handle was that it slotted in below the radiator, which meant a high-ish bonnet line.
While relatively slow, the 403 had far better handling and braking than any mainstream car of its day, and with overdrive was a comfortable cruiser. Great on bad roads, too with 15" wheels and long travel suspension; I took mine on some 4WD tracks.
And, shock, horror, it had a heater - no Australian cars did at the time. Had a 'start' button too, which carmakers these days consider a big deal.
The first 403 was killed by rust, the second by my realisation that I needed something more modern and safer in a crash.
I recall that Phil Hill, 1961 F1 World Champion, advertised it with "between races you can't beat a Peugeot 403".
Geoff
Markup
Hopefully to fit bits up to this big chungus 1.5" radius
That's a big one. Danger
I would recommend you take the baseplate off your router. Mount the base in a recessed hole at the top so that you do not lose as much depth. DO NOT use a bit extension with a router bit that big. Lexan/Polycarbonate are the best for a clear baseplate if you feel the need (I used to do that I don't anymore). I often buy Lexan "drops" online (ebay) for pretty cheap. Build a fence as well. The fence will help make sure you can control how much cut you are taking in one pass. Having dust collection in the fence and the base will make your life much more enjoyable and possibly longer.
Be safe. a bit like that will take big bites and pull in anything it can.
I have a 1-1/2" bit I refuse to use on my router. Too scary for me. My 1-1/4" bit is just fine.
Yeah, I don't like the sound of collet adapter to give extra length.
I understand the concern. Any project like this is touch and go. If this specific adapter plate doesn't work out ill figure out another game plan and use this one as a template.
The table does have a fence and I will definitely use it to take multiple passes working up to full depth of cut.
That being said, I'll gladly sell my 1-1/2" bit to someone.
I recently used my 1-1/2" roundover for a port flare. It does scare me. I used 2-3 passes with my 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1-1/4" and finally 1-1/2". By time I got to the 1-1/2" there wasn't much to take off. Of course I could have taken many small passes with the 1-1/2" bit but I don't like having that thing spinning anywhere near me if I can avoid it.
Bit sold.
I've threaded both HDPE and LDPE. Small Fine threads didn't work well but 1/4 -20 was OK.
I agree with drew, course threads
You mean John.
Him too
10-24 was the largest standard button head that would fit in the plate recesses. Failing that i can always go with socket heads in a larger thread or drill out the recesses for larger heads.
I used 10-24 in my plexiglass router jig.
If you don't need the transparency I would highly suggest G10 phenolic material or aluminum. Check out G10 at McMaster-Carr. They both machine (ie tapped threads) really well.
This looks cool: I would hope there's a model F5000 racing car into which this could fit!
Geoff
I'm subscribed to his channel, builds some fantastic stuff.
Seems like it can work without the extension. 1/2" plate probably would have been about perfect instead of the 3/4". A4e suggest a much better router when I talked to him (thanks again). Though, the hobby budget was running thin after the table saw purchase. Hopefully this gets me by for now.
That'll do! 👍🏻for no extension needed
Day 8, no tobacco. Yay me.
Congratulations, you've got that licked
So the SDC got me thinking about other get togethers, and the house tracks. I found the playing of the same tracks over and over repulsive, and fatiguing. If I ever get enough time to put together a meeting, my thought is to use 3 one minute house tracks and let everyone bring 5 to 7min of their own music. I get the idea of a house track is to compare one speaker to another, but how about we as a group stop comparing and competing for pecking order and just do it for comradery. I mean who really gives a shit who's speaker is better? I just want to enjoy some music on some interesting home brew speakers. I know some of you will disagree and that's completely fine and reasonable, but I thought I'd throw this out there for everyone to mull over. Oh while I'm at it, what do you say, no more back handed compliments like those sound great, too bad the cabinets don't match the sound. WTF first off stop critiquing without being asked, only positive comments without. Okay rant over.
I like this idea.
I like your idea on the sound tracks
Agreed.
I, and I’m thinking many builders here (… I’ve been wrong before) go at a build project with a unique (from their previous builds) goal (or three) and so picking music that accentuates these build goals is interesting, IMO, for the demos.
I hope to get to more events (Colorado isn’t all that MID) for a) spending time with a fun group, b) looking at and ‘borrowing’ what I find unique and interesting at these meetings/ events, and c) I appreciate honest feedback/ suggestions as I hope to be always learning from this group.