My laser started as an eleksmaker A3. I bought all new everything and built it into a 3 1/2 foot by 5ft CNC.
I have a home built CNC 44 router in my shop but have been working with Mark on his larger 48. I also spend some time with my friend Zach who recently bought a Hurco VM1 CNC mill. I also have 4 3d printers.
If you are loading a bit to the point it is causing dimensional inaccuracy you are moving way to fast. You can adjust feed rate and spindle rpm to compensate.
I love CNC's I have a lot to learn but they have been a fun hobby for many years.
@kenrhodes said:
I looked into the x carve a number of years ago. I would run as high rpm as possible and take slow cuts since your bit size will be limited. Also make sure that when you cut a square both X and Y are accurate. It's easy to assume they will move the same but I have seen many machines need calibrate on their X and Y.
Thanks Ken - I originally tried 1/4 inch bits, but 1/8 inch bits seem to work a bit better, and the router is then cutting a narrower "kerf", so less pressure on the router alignment.
I need (want) 1mm precision, but getting 3-4mm precision when I need to cut a mirror image board for the left and right sides of the boxes.
Two possible solution I will try next.
I am cutting only the "inside" rabbets at this time. IE:
So to eliminate any "wiggle" from positioning different boards, I can use the CNC to also cut the board to the final dimensions of 11" x 16".
Another (slightly longer time frame) is to change from designing in Easel, to V-Carve 2-d design where I can insert dimensioning "helps" to verify the position on the board.
But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
is this your CNC or some maker space. 1 MM or better is certainly possible - 3-4 mm is way off and needs to be alinged, the base made heavier, use shparper bits, work peice is wrapped. If this isn't your machine please ask someone to align/calibrate the machine. They tend to go out of whack from time to time, especially if they are shared, seen plenty of times when the bit gets stuck and drageed and broken and some such shennanigans which tend to throw the alignment.calibration off.
Is there a way to manually index it by starting with the tool down but not turning and bring the workpiece edge up to it? Could index to a corner by using a straight edge. I wouldn't be surprised with communal tools you might have to resort to stone age stuff like that.
@ani_101 said:
is this your CNC or some maker space. 1 MM or better is certainly possible - 3-4 mm is way off and needs to be alinged, the base made heavier, use shparper bits, work peice is wrapped. If this isn't your machine please ask someone to align/calibrate the machine. They tend to go out of whack from time to time, especially if they are shared, seen plenty of times when the bit gets stuck and drageed and broken and some such shennanigans which tend to throw the alignment.calibration off.
Yeah, it's the Maker space CNC machine
Thanks, I will double check the alignment. Quite possible that it has drifted, especially since the X-Carve uses belts.
But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
@DrewsBrews said:
Is there a way to manually index it by starting with the tool down but not turning and bring the workpiece edge up to it? Could index to a corner by using a straight edge. I wouldn't be surprised with communal tools you might have to resort to stone age stuff like that.
That's how Easel and X-Carve work - you either index (set home X-Y-Z position) on either the bottom left corner of the work piece or to the center of the work piece. I"m pretty sure that I am setting X-Y to less than 1mm "slop", but less sure that "flipping" the Easel 2-d drawing over for the Right Side is totally aligned with the Left Side
But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
If you can get it re-calibrated it might not be a bad idea to have the tool make a divot in the mounting plate at a known value such as 0,0 and mark it so you have a future reference point. If you suspect it has gone back out of calibration later it would be easy to check if the tool is off from that divot when you tell it to go back to that spot. Though I guess that depends on how they recalibrate afterwards if that mark remains the same.
My current plan is to try and cross the 6.5" over to the JF 1204 in Visaton waveguide. Looks like it might be able to cross down to 2khz or a hair under. Taking a leap of faith the woofer is ok below that. FR looks promising. They will go in some of the .56cf flatpacks with a pair of DS175-PRs per cabinet. I hope to get started whenever I finish the current 3-way and TV stand/subwoofer build.
This is the rough sketch I sent to Brad with the only requirment to keep the height under 38" so it fits in my SUV! He turned it out into a great cab with mixed material (mdf and particle board) and bracing.
Drivers will all be MAC05 and tweeter will be the Jule Fidelity JF-1204F. The MAC05 requires a higher volume to play low hence the iso-baric configuration and also to meet the Indiyana theme requirments. Main woofer volume is 28lits net and tuned with two 2" x 9" ports for a F3 of 35. 8" baffle, 37.5 height, removable back for acceing the iso woofer, will be stuffed loosely with ultratouch.
10 5" woofers and 2 tweeters in a compact floorstander under 300$ at the launch pricing at 100DB+ doing 35Hz. Meets both Indiyana theme and Dayton Budget(300$) category.
no worries, gross is 1.5 cu Ft for the teme. The main voume is 1cu ft net, with bracing, ports etc, it about 1900 cu in. All in, the gross volume is under 1.5 cu ft. including the iso and mid chamber.
"Same plane dual woofer 3ways, or 3ways with dual woofers facing externally are not allowed. Dual external woofers are for 2 or 2.5ways alone." ?
Not trying to bust your nads Ani, I'd just hate to see you drag these all the way to Fort Wayne only to find out then that they don't meet the stated rules and therefore cannot be entered in the theme contest.
I want to hear them too, but Craig is right. These would not actually meet the criteria as they are.
If you remove the mid and go 2.5way, you'd be fine.
yep. forgot about that - there was supposed to be no high pass on the mid, so 2.5 way but then it might have issues with the mid leakage - if that turns out too wonky, then it's be a 3 way and not meet the criteria... will see how it goes. There is a built in 2 db humb due to box tuning at around 90hz, the mid sealed should roll off f3 is at 80hz, also at around that point worse case bass might be a bit leaner.
Measuring all these low frequencies is a pain, so most propably i'll have a an external filter with both 2.5 way and 3 way built in. 2.5 way may be crap - too many compromises, 3 way should be decent.
backup option, all active... but these are getting built!!!
impedance wise they line up (nom imp 4 ohms, iso 2 ohm, and add them for a total imp of 4 ohms, no gain in db - so matches up with the single MAC05). Also why the MAC05 is the mid and not the MAC04. long term these will be 3 ways.
impedance wise they line up (nom imp 4 ohms, iso 2 ohm, and add them for a total imp of 4 ohms, no gain in db - so matches up with the single MAC05). Also why the MAC05 is the mid and not the MAC04. long term these will be 3 ways.
Excellent, you will have 4 times the woofer radiating area , giving you 6 db of added sensitivity down low where the the wavelengths are large and the woofers mutually couple, more than enough to compensate for baffle step loss.
I am not sure exactly how to go about it, but maybe someone here could help with your driver spacing and baffle width to make the whole baffle step compensation thing go as smooth as possible.
Not in this case, as there is no gain in sensitivity. The isobaric method is a net gain of zero, even at the 2 ohm load per pair. Then in series with the adjacent 2 ohm pair nets no change and a 4 ohm load.
What Ani is doing is not the most efficient way either. While Sensitivity takes no loss, Efficiency takes a 6dB loss per cab.
He was correct in his initial output assessment.
Comments
My laser started as an eleksmaker A3. I bought all new everything and built it into a 3 1/2 foot by 5ft CNC.
I have a home built CNC 44 router in my shop but have been working with Mark on his larger 48. I also spend some time with my friend Zach who recently bought a Hurco VM1 CNC mill. I also have 4 3d printers.
If you are loading a bit to the point it is causing dimensional inaccuracy you are moving way to fast. You can adjust feed rate and spindle rpm to compensate.
I love CNC's I have a lot to learn but they have been a fun hobby for many years.
I use Vcarve-pro. Bearing and a square check once a year. Very easy software.
Thanks Ken - I originally tried 1/4 inch bits, but 1/8 inch bits seem to work a bit better, and the router is then cutting a narrower "kerf", so less pressure on the router alignment.
I need (want) 1mm precision, but getting 3-4mm precision when I need to cut a mirror image board for the left and right sides of the boxes.
Two possible solution I will try next.
I am cutting only the "inside" rabbets at this time. IE:
So to eliminate any "wiggle" from positioning different boards, I can use the CNC to also cut the board to the final dimensions of 11" x 16".
Another (slightly longer time frame) is to change from designing in Easel, to V-Carve 2-d design where I can insert dimensioning "helps" to verify the position on the board.
is this your CNC or some maker space. 1 MM or better is certainly possible - 3-4 mm is way off and needs to be alinged, the base made heavier, use shparper bits, work peice is wrapped. If this isn't your machine please ask someone to align/calibrate the machine. They tend to go out of whack from time to time, especially if they are shared, seen plenty of times when the bit gets stuck and drageed and broken and some such shennanigans which tend to throw the alignment.calibration off.
Is there a way to manually index it by starting with the tool down but not turning and bring the workpiece edge up to it? Could index to a corner by using a straight edge. I wouldn't be surprised with communal tools you might have to resort to stone age stuff like that.
Yeah, it's the Maker space CNC machine
Thanks, I will double check the alignment. Quite possible that it has drifted, especially since the X-Carve uses belts.
That's how Easel and X-Carve work - you either index (set home X-Y-Z position) on either the bottom left corner of the work piece or to the center of the work piece. I"m pretty sure that I am setting X-Y to less than 1mm "slop", but less sure that "flipping" the Easel 2-d drawing over for the Right Side is totally aligned with the Left Side
Ah I see. The error would show up when mirrored unless you could mirror the reference point too.
If you can get it re-calibrated it might not be a bad idea to have the tool make a divot in the mounting plate at a known value such as 0,0 and mark it so you have a future reference point. If you suspect it has gone back out of calibration later it would be easy to check if the tool is off from that divot when you tell it to go back to that spot. Though I guess that depends on how they recalibrate afterwards if that mark remains the same.
Sorry for the thread hijack folks- I will continue further discussion in my TL thread.
Oops, Yep back on track.
My current plan is to try and cross the 6.5" over to the JF 1204 in Visaton waveguide. Looks like it might be able to cross down to 2khz or a hair under. Taking a leap of faith the woofer is ok below that. FR looks promising. They will go in some of the .56cf flatpacks with a pair of DS175-PRs per cabinet. I hope to get started whenever I finish the current 3-way and TV stand/subwoofer build.
Love seeing these projects come together, guys!
Shameless plug that these make a great present to oneself.
Or other diyers
Carrying over from Jule Fidelity thread.
This is the rough sketch I sent to Brad with the only requirment to keep the height under 38" so it fits in my SUV! He turned it out into a great cab with mixed material (mdf and particle board) and bracing.
Drivers will all be MAC05 and tweeter will be the Jule Fidelity JF-1204F. The MAC05 requires a higher volume to play low hence the iso-baric configuration and also to meet the Indiyana theme requirments. Main woofer volume is 28lits net and tuned with two 2" x 9" ports for a F3 of 35. 8" baffle, 37.5 height, removable back for acceing the iso woofer, will be stuffed loosely with ultratouch.
10 5" woofers and 2 tweeters in a compact floorstander under 300$ at the launch pricing at 100DB+ doing 35Hz. Meets both Indiyana theme and Dayton Budget(300$) category.
I think the Indy Theme for 2024 states an overall gross volume of 1 cubic foot (28.3 L), not just the main woofer volume. ICBW
no worries, gross is 1.5 cu Ft for the teme. The main voume is 1cu ft net, with bracing, ports etc, it about 1900 cu in. All in, the gross volume is under 1.5 cu ft. including the iso and mid chamber.
1.5ft^3 or less.
InDIYana Event Website
Yep I was wrong
What about:
"Same plane dual woofer 3ways, or 3ways with dual woofers facing externally are not allowed. Dual external woofers are for 2 or 2.5ways alone." ?
Not trying to bust your nads Ani, I'd just hate to see you drag these all the way to Fort Wayne only to find out then that they don't meet the stated rules and therefore cannot be entered in the theme contest.
I wana hear em anyway.
I want to hear them too, but Craig is right. These would not actually meet the criteria as they are.
If you remove the mid and go 2.5way, you'd be fine.
InDIYana Event Website
yep. forgot about that - there was supposed to be no high pass on the mid, so 2.5 way but then it might have issues with the mid leakage - if that turns out too wonky, then it's be a 3 way and not meet the criteria... will see how it goes. There is a built in 2 db humb due to box tuning at around 90hz, the mid sealed should roll off f3 is at 80hz, also at around that point worse case bass might be a bit leaner.
Measuring all these low frequencies is a pain, so most propably i'll have a an external filter with both 2.5 way and 3 way built in. 2.5 way may be crap - too many compromises, 3 way should be decent.
backup option, all active...
but these are getting built!!!
impedance wise they line up (nom imp 4 ohms, iso 2 ohm, and add them for a total imp of 4 ohms, no gain in db - so matches up with the single MAC05). Also why the MAC05 is the mid and not the MAC04. long term these will be 3 ways.
What a fantastic project!
OOh, so we might get to hear em both ways? Don't get many chances to A/B that kind of stuff with same drivers. Should be really interesting!
xcellent> @ani_101 said:
Excellent, you will have 4 times the woofer radiating area , giving you 6 db of added sensitivity down low where the the wavelengths are large and the woofers mutually couple, more than enough to compensate for baffle step loss.
I am not sure exactly how to go about it, but maybe someone here could help with your driver spacing and baffle width to make the whole baffle step compensation thing go as smooth as possible.
Not in this case, as there is no gain in sensitivity. The isobaric method is a net gain of zero, even at the 2 ohm load per pair. Then in series with the adjacent 2 ohm pair nets no change and a 4 ohm load.
What Ani is doing is not the most efficient way either. While Sensitivity takes no loss, Efficiency takes a 6dB loss per cab.
He was correct in his initial output assessment.
InDIYana Event Website
Use a 2 Ohm compatible stereo amp for the iso woofer pair . . .