@PWRRYD said:
When my quad of R176-CP-08's showed up from RAD and I opened the box I was hit in the face with the worst/strongest cigarette smoke smell. Like someone was in the box smoking. It took years for the smell to fade off the drivers' soft parts.
I got a four pack of them but never noticed anything. They’ve been in the collection for years now so it’s too late to notice anymore, but I know I wouldn’t have missed that.
Yeah I had noticed that too, I mentioned it and my next few shipments did not smell. All good, the Rival Rush was fun while it lasted. Sorry they couldn't get any traction.
@jr@mac said:
They have a wonky response, but are super clean above 3K.
That lowered shelf below 3k should get boosted a little by the narrow 6" baffle it's going on, so that should work well. Probably cross around 2.5 - 3k anyway.
@PWRRYD - did you ever measure, or even better use, the ones that you used to have (that I now have on my supply shelf)?
Wow, forgot where those went. I did measure them, don't remember using them. I bet they would work and sound way better than the Bestons I used with my pair of MAC-04 drivers.
@jr@mac said:
They have a wonky response, but are super clean above 3K.
That lowered shelf below 3k should get boosted a little by the narrow 6" baffle it's going on, so that should work well. Probably cross around 2.5 - 3k anyway.
Yeah, that fills in a bit. I used them on a 7-1/2" baffle. The top end is the wonky bit. Arguable if it matters all that much, though. Nice tweeter.
@jr@mac said:
They have a wonky response, but are super clean above 3K.
That lowered shelf below 3k should get boosted a little by the narrow 6" baffle it's going on, so that should work well. Probably cross around 2.5 - 3k anyway.
I did a teardown on one. Copper cap on pole piece, well designed and damped rear chamber.
@jr@mac said:
They have a wonky response, but are super clean above 3K.
That lowered shelf below 3k should get boosted a little by the narrow 6" baffle it's going on, so that should work well. Probably cross around 2.5 - 3k anyway.
I did a teardown on one. Copper cap on pole piece, well designed and damped rear chamber.
That's inspiring, but I'm realizing my artificially imposed and completely unnecessary restrictions require a smaller faceplate tweeter, so I'm changing gears to the DX20
Got a text from my wife yesterday that a "very good" smelling box came in the mail. They were shipped in a dryer sheet box. I hope every speaker gets shipped in such a good smelling box as it seemed to take the edge off of me buying more stuff I don't need.
I will be building a TM along the lines of Dan's tower. This should be a good combo. I hope to do them justice.
Talked with Brad, Mark and Dan and I have their blessing to offer these cabinets available to the MAC members. If someone was interested in building along or wanted to build a set independently please let me know.
Thanks. Getting the dimensions correct is a lot harder than expected. We know to leave some fudge factor when we build manually. With a CNC you assume that it will hold the dimensions that we program but MDF is not stable enough to hold those dimensions.
@kenrhodes said:
Thanks. Getting the dimensions correct is a lot harder than expected. We know to leave some fudge factor when we build manually. With a CNC you assume that it will hold the dimensions that we program but MDF is not stable enough to hold those dimensions.
I've been working with an X-Carve CNC lately, and having a lot of trouble getting consistent cuts on different boards.
Not sure yet whether it's just that machine, or something that I can "tighten up" for the precision I need.
But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
I looked into the x carve a number of years ago. I would run as high rpm as possible and take slow cuts since your bit size will be limited. Also make sure that when you cut a square both X and Y are accurate. It's easy to assume they will move the same but I have seen many machines need calibrate on their X and Y.
Torque steering and cutter speed need to be compensated for in the programming/set-up/calibration, don't they?
I don't know, just asking as an interested observer.
Comments
I reached out to RAD about it. Think I did but not 100% sure if I posted anything about that here.
No biggy. The drivers were great and my wife just made me store them in the garage for the first 6 months or so.
I got a four pack of them but never noticed anything. They’ve been in the collection for years now so it’s too late to notice anymore, but I know I wouldn’t have missed that.
I can second Craig's observation, cigarette+ new electronics or something like that.
Yeah I had noticed that too, I mentioned it and my next few shipments did not smell. All good, the Rival Rush was fun while it lasted. Sorry they couldn't get any traction.
They look great, and did you pick up some new cables? as you have your amp centered…
Some DIY cables I made a few years ago. I also bought some appropriate length interconnects.
Kinda needs an aluminum dome or ribbon up there. Otherwise, nice units🤘🏼
Anyone have any experience with the Newark 53-5165 tweeter? I have a pair and they're a perfect cosmetic match with the MAC drivers.
Spec sheet is awfully thin on details/T&S parameters . . . --> https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3686239.pdf
Well they look great together textures and colors.
https://www.jfcomponents.com/
Specs look good if there accurate. Price is nice.
https://www.jfcomponents.com/
@PWRRYD - did you ever measure, or even better use, the ones that you used to have (that I now have on my supply shelf)?
They have a wonky response, but are super clean above 3K.
That lowered shelf below 3k should get boosted a little by the narrow 6" baffle it's going on, so that should work well. Probably cross around 2.5 - 3k anyway.
Wow, forgot where those went. I did measure them, don't remember using them. I bet they would work and sound way better than the Bestons I used with my pair of MAC-04 drivers.
Yeah, that fills in a bit. I used them on a 7-1/2" baffle. The top end is the wonky bit. Arguable if it matters all that much, though. Nice tweeter.
I did a teardown on one. Copper cap on pole piece, well designed and damped rear chamber.
That's inspiring, but I'm realizing my artificially imposed and completely unnecessary restrictions require a smaller faceplate tweeter, so I'm changing gears to the DX20
The DX20's in my "Manganese" outdoor speakers have now survived their 3rd year outside. They are still going strong.
Sehlin Sound Solutions
Got a text from my wife yesterday that a "very good" smelling box came in the mail. They were shipped in a dryer sheet box.
I hope every speaker gets shipped in such a good smelling box as it seemed to take the edge off of me buying more stuff I don't need.
I will be building a TM along the lines of Dan's tower. This should be a good combo. I hope to do them justice.
Got a little work done today. 😀
Talked with Brad, Mark and Dan and I have their blessing to offer these cabinets available to the MAC members. If someone was interested in building along or wanted to build a set independently please let me know.
Those look really nice Ken!
Thanks. Getting the dimensions correct is a lot harder than expected. We know to leave some fudge factor when we build manually. With a CNC you assume that it will hold the dimensions that we program but MDF is not stable enough to hold those dimensions.
I've been working with an X-Carve CNC lately, and having a lot of trouble getting consistent cuts on different boards.
Not sure yet whether it's just that machine, or something that I can "tighten up" for the precision I need.
I looked into the x carve a number of years ago. I would run as high rpm as possible and take slow cuts since your bit size will be limited. Also make sure that when you cut a square both X and Y are accurate. It's easy to assume they will move the same but I have seen many machines need calibrate on their X and Y.
Ken which CNC are you using? Also, what was your lazer machine?
Torque steering and cutter speed need to be compensated for in the programming/set-up/calibration, don't they?
I don't know, just asking as an interested observer.