@Kornbread said:
... and all this time I thought it was because running water doesn't freeze as quickly as still water.
I did too, until I watched that episode a while back. Rich said that the pressure can reach as high as 25,000psi. His pressure gauge only went up to 200psi. Hard to believe that the water pressure can get that high inside the copper pipes. You'd think that the fiber seals on all the faucets in your house would blow out before the pipes burst, but apparently that is not what happens in real life.
We have gotten about 14" of snow here in the last week, which is more double what we normally get for the entire month. I had to have words with one of my neighbors this morning because he was shoveling snow from his driveway onto mine. He was completely belligerent about it. We have been very fortunate for the most part, but too bad you can't win the neighbor lottery all the time.
@Kornbread said:
... and all this time I thought it was because running water doesn't freeze as quickly as still water.
I did too, until I watched that episode a while back. Rich said that the pressure can reach as high as 25,000psi. His pressure gauge only went up to 200psi. Hard to believe that the water pressure can get that high inside the copper pipes. You'd think that the fiber seals on all the faucets in your house would blow out before the pipes burst, but apparently that is not what happens in real life.
Who is Rich and exactly what copper pipes are you referring to? Outside hose bibs should be isolated inside at least 18" from the outside penetration and drained before winter temps drop below freezing.
Only one time in my life did I experience frozen supply lines. It was at our distribution location in Janesville WI when the temps dropped to -36 F at night and daytime highs were only -13 F for a whole week. Our supply line froze in the manhole space (not underground). That was a mess of a situation to say the least.
Snapped a pic moments before all the craft stuff moved back in. It is done besides needing some handles on the doors. Pretty sweet setup for her. Off to the right is her PC with the Cricut I got her for xmas.
Kindof jealous. My PC is off to the left. Wish I had a space to do glueups and electronics work. I don't think I'll be allowed to use this new workbench as I've proven that I'm incapable of working on something without making the whole room a complete mess.
@Kornbread said:
... and all this time I thought it was because running water doesn't freeze as quickly as still water.
I did too, until I watched that episode a while back. Rich said that the pressure can reach as high as 25,000psi. His pressure gauge only went up to 200psi. Hard to believe that the water pressure can get that high inside the copper pipes. You'd think that the fiber seals on all the faucets in your house would blow out before the pipes burst, but apparently that is not what happens in real life.
Who is Rich and exactly what copper pipes are you referring to? Outside hose bibs should be isolated inside at least 18" from the outside penetration and drained before winter temps drop below freezing.
Only one time in my life did I experience frozen supply lines. It was at our distribution location in Janesville WI when the temps dropped to -36 F at night and daytime highs were only -13 F for a whole week. Our supply line froze in the manhole space (not underground). That was a mess of a situation to say the least.
I've experienced several frozen copper pipe situations over my lifetime. Sometimes they burst and make a big mess. Sometimes they freeze without bursting, resulting in no water until you thaw the lines. This would generally be 1/2 or 3/4" diameter copper supply lines running next to exterior walls or between a partially backfilled basement and a unheated garage. I have also had several temporary freeze up situations on my kitchen sink. Under the sink, the original builder did not put insulation between the copper pipes and the outside wall. So every winter I would get kitchen sink freeze up situations (no water) when it got down to about -15F or so. So I stuffed a batt of insulation between the pipes and the wall and now it doesn't freeze up any more.
My two outside water bib shutoff valves are isolated 10" from the outside penetration and I drain them every winter. Unless I forget, which happens. But I have never had a problem with these.
Decided not to go down to the fire pit and roast marshmallows today
At least we were a nice comfortable 14 deg F in West Michigan, none of that below zero stuff.
Melbourne's coldest temperature ever recorded was −2.8 °C (27.0 °F) in 1869. I think it's over 50 years since we got down to freezing; I remember getting up and seeing that a dripping tap had made an icicle to the ground.
A lot of our weather comes from Australia's inland deserts, so that we often get higher summer temperatures than Sydney or Brisbane. Not as bad as Marble Bar in WA, which suffered five consecutive days of 43C (about 109F) last week.
Luckily for all concerned, the forecast for the Australian Open tennis isn't too hot. When Jim Courier won it many years ago, he sprinted out of the court and went for a swim in the nearby Yarra River to cool off; not very wise considering its condition, but he may have done it for a bet!
OT : Have a 1.5 year old GE dishwasher thats not draining during the wash cycle. Ive went inside and made sure nothing was plugged up , and looked good minus one bay leaf. I disconnected the drain hose from the sink and blew into it , I was able to hear air bubbles in the dishwasher so that doesnt seem to be plugged. I guess my next thought would be the pump but its only 1.5 years old ????
It sounds like a pump issue if you can blow air through the hose and there are no kinks in it.The pump could have croaked, in which case it should be replaceable under warranty.
If it is the pump, that would be unusual as they usually last for five plus years. I assume you've tried a dishwasher cleaner to see if that works?
Dishwasher starts leaking water. Repairman called and he replaces a board.
After a couple of days the dishwasher quits working altogether.
Repairman called again and another board is replaced. Dishwasher still doesn't work. Repairman says the diagnostic tool says the harness is bad, but he can't find a problem.
Repairman states it is beyond repair.
It my younger days I would have gotten the manual and spent the time to try and fix it. Instead I say "F*ck it" and buy a new dishwasher. At least the repair company took the old one and didn't charge me anything. I could rant and rave about shitty GE products, but it's today's products in general. Look at Boeing.
@Ed_Perkins said:
GE dishwasher story (5 years old):
I could rant and rave about shitty GE products...
I've put in their 'top line kitchen appliances' when we built our house- thankfully no issues, fingers crossed. But their brand new clothes washer and dryer had issues from day one. The appliance company took them back, and replace with LG- zero issues. Thinking it really does matter where they are made...
Ive actually had really good luck with my older GE stuff which is why I went that route again. I guess they dont build them like they used to . So I sucked up the water and pulled the washing machine out to dismantle . Started probing with the meter and found this ... looks like a solenoid that opens and closes what I would think would be a valve. when I probed the terminal I got an OL reading , investigating further , there is a sleeve of material on the piston arm that is crispy , looks like it got hot , I can pick away at it and flakes off. Im guesing thats my issue .
Probably 120VAC solenoid - does it operate with voltage applied and does the "crispy" thing move down when energized? (This is what operates the gate or ball [diversion] valve it is attached too . . ).
Or, pull the connector off the solenoid and check the resistance of the coil - if open/infinite Ohms it is bad, if zero Ohms it is probably shorted.
The pump pushes water through the dishwasher during the cleaning cycle inside the dishwasher and then diverts the pump output to the drain via the solenoid operated diversion valve when the wash cycle is completed.
The part in need of replacement is the solenoid. Your service tech is inexperienced to say the least . . .
Comments
I did too, until I watched that episode a while back. Rich said that the pressure can reach as high as 25,000psi. His pressure gauge only went up to 200psi. Hard to believe that the water pressure can get that high inside the copper pipes. You'd think that the fiber seals on all the faucets in your house would blow out before the pipes burst, but apparently that is not what happens in real life.
We have gotten about 14" of snow here in the last week, which is more double what we normally get for the entire month. I had to have words with one of my neighbors this morning because he was shoveling snow from his driveway onto mine. He was completely belligerent about it. We have been very fortunate for the most part, but too bad you can't win the neighbor lottery all the time.
Who is Rich and exactly what copper pipes are you referring to? Outside hose bibs should be isolated inside at least 18" from the outside penetration and drained before winter temps drop below freezing.
Only one time in my life did I experience frozen supply lines. It was at our distribution location in Janesville WI when the temps dropped to -36 F at night and daytime highs were only -13 F for a whole week. Our supply line froze in the manhole space (not underground). That was a mess of a situation to say the least.
Snapped a pic moments before all the craft stuff moved back in. It is done besides needing some handles on the doors. Pretty sweet setup for her. Off to the right is her PC with the Cricut I got her for xmas.
Kindof jealous. My PC is off to the left. Wish I had a space to do glueups and electronics work. I don't think I'll be allowed to use this new workbench as I've proven that I'm incapable of working on something without making the whole room a complete mess.
I've experienced several frozen copper pipe situations over my lifetime. Sometimes they burst and make a big mess. Sometimes they freeze without bursting, resulting in no water until you thaw the lines. This would generally be 1/2 or 3/4" diameter copper supply lines running next to exterior walls or between a partially backfilled basement and a unheated garage. I have also had several temporary freeze up situations on my kitchen sink. Under the sink, the original builder did not put insulation between the copper pipes and the outside wall. So every winter I would get kitchen sink freeze up situations (no water) when it got down to about -15F or so. So I stuffed a batt of insulation between the pipes and the wall and now it doesn't freeze up any more.
My two outside water bib shutoff valves are isolated 10" from the outside penetration and I drain them every winter. Unless I forget, which happens. But I have never had a problem with these.
Frozen lines can get bent. Few years back we were down in the nagatives for a few days. Guess who got to pee and poop in a bucket for a few days ???
Decided not to go down to the fire pit and roast marshmallows today
At least we were a nice comfortable 14 deg F in West Michigan, none of that below zero stuff.
Woke up to -12F this morning. Will be later this week before we even tickle positive temps.
-12 here as well, +2 forecasted for a high. I didn't go to work, you can die in this crap.
Started my day with an ambulance, one of my employees is going for a ride. 😟
😳
https://www.jfcomponents.com/
I'm sitting in the ER waiting room, his mom is on the way. Not sure how he is doing they don't share that with non-family.
So much for a routine Monday. He's a good kid, hope he's alright.
Hit -11 here around 8am. Total week high forecast is 22 degrees.
InDIYana Event Website
Whew, back at the office. He seemed resting comfortably when I left.
Car said -17 F on the way to work this morning. Said -10 F a few minutes ago.
Still -10 here. Been in and out all morning, my toes are still trying to thaw.
Only got down to -8F last night. Currently -1F. I think this is because we had mostly cloudy skies overnight, which can make a big difference.
Melbourne's coldest temperature ever recorded was −2.8 °C (27.0 °F) in 1869. I think it's over 50 years since we got down to freezing; I remember getting up and seeing that a dripping tap had made an icicle to the ground.
A lot of our weather comes from Australia's inland deserts, so that we often get higher summer temperatures than Sydney or Brisbane. Not as bad as Marble Bar in WA, which suffered five consecutive days of 43C (about 109F) last week.
Luckily for all concerned, the forecast for the Australian Open tennis isn't too hot. When Jim Courier won it many years ago, he sprinted out of the court and went for a swim in the nearby Yarra River to cool off; not very wise considering its condition, but he may have done it for a bet!
Geoff
Insomnia strikes again.
Random thought - I need to grab some Moody Blues and analyze it from a demo perspective.
Knights in White Satin? I hope someone remastered it.
I was thinking more their 80s stuff.
OT : Have a 1.5 year old GE dishwasher thats not draining during the wash cycle. Ive went inside and made sure nothing was plugged up , and looked good minus one bay leaf. I disconnected the drain hose from the sink and blew into it , I was able to hear air bubbles in the dishwasher so that doesnt seem to be plugged. I guess my next thought would be the pump but its only 1.5 years old ????
It sounds like a pump issue if you can blow air through the hose and there are no kinks in it.The pump could have croaked, in which case it should be replaceable under warranty.
If it is the pump, that would be unusual as they usually last for five plus years. I assume you've tried a dishwasher cleaner to see if that works?
Geoff
GE dishwasher story (5 years old):
It my younger days I would have gotten the manual and spent the time to try and fix it. Instead I say "F*ck it" and buy a new dishwasher. At least the repair company took the old one and didn't charge me anything. I could rant and rave about shitty GE products, but it's today's products in general. Look at Boeing.
I've put in their 'top line kitchen appliances' when we built our house- thankfully no issues, fingers crossed. But their brand new clothes washer and dryer had issues from day one. The appliance company took them back, and replace with LG- zero issues. Thinking it really does matter where they are made...
Ive actually had really good luck with my older GE stuff which is why I went that route again. I guess they dont build them like they used to . So I sucked up the water and pulled the washing machine out to dismantle . Started probing with the meter and found this ... looks like a solenoid that opens and closes what I would think would be a valve. when I probed the terminal I got an OL reading , investigating further , there is a sleeve of material on the piston arm that is crispy , looks like it got hot , I can pick away at it and flakes off. Im guesing thats my issue .
Probably 120VAC solenoid - does it operate with voltage applied and does the "crispy" thing move down when energized? (This is what operates the gate or ball [diversion] valve it is attached too . . ).
Or, pull the connector off the solenoid and check the resistance of the coil - if open/infinite Ohms it is bad, if zero Ohms it is probably shorted.
The pump pushes water through the dishwasher during the cleaning cycle inside the dishwasher and then diverts the pump output to the drain via the solenoid operated diversion valve when the wash cycle is completed.
The part in need of replacement is the solenoid. Your service tech is inexperienced to say the least . . .
??? Im the service tech . Its out of the one year GE warranty . Sourced the part and will be ordering.
Thanks all